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Troubleshooting

 
The CronusMAX is not perfect, but that is OK. These troubleshooting tips can help you out for those imperfect times when your CronusMAX isn't acting right.
 
But not every problem requires a trip to the nearest Gamestop or placing a call into technical support. In fact, many of the most common problems you might experience can be solved by using some basic troubleshooting steps to find a quick fix for the problem. We'll go over some of the most common steps you can take to cure issues as well as some of the more common problems people experience with their CronusMAX. 
 

1
Cronus PRO says 'Device Disconnected'
If the Cronus Pro software still says 'Device Disconnected' even though you have connected it to your computer, it is because your device either doesn't have the CronusMAX PLUS Firmware programmed to it, the USB Cable is bad or the device is somehow corrupted and requires recovery.
Here are some troubleshooting suggestions:
 
  • The Mini-USB cable may be faulty - try another (it must be a full data USB cable - not just a charging cable).
  • The USB port is 3.0 or possibly faulty - try another (we recommend USB 2.0 as many USB 3.0 ports are not fully backwards compatible).
  • The device is somehow corrupted after it was programmed at the factory or you tried to update the firmware when connected to a USB 3.0 port Click Here for instructions on the Firmware Recovery procedure.
  • The device is an older version of CronusMAX that doesn't have the CronusMAX PLUS firmware and is not supported (Click Here to check the different CronusMAX versions).
  • Some Anti-Virus apps block certain functions in the Cronus PRO software. Try disabling temporarily to see if that helps.
  • The firmware must be at least CronusMAX PLUS v1.00 (older CronusMAX (non-Plus) versions will not work with the new Cronus PRO software).
  • If you have tried everything and the CronusMAX still won't connect then there is the unfortunate possibility that it may be faulty. You should return it to wherever you purchased from and get a replacement.
 

2
Controller disconnects after a few minutes on a PS4
When using a non PS4 controller on a PS4 you have to have a USB Hub compatible CronusMAX PLUS firmware and also a compatible USB Hub to enable Full Time Authentication (partial Authentication forces the controller to reset every 8-10 minutes). To find out if your CronusMAX PLUS is USB Hub compatible, look for the Blue HUB logo in the Status Bar of the Cronus PRO Software (if the log is not Blue then it is not compatible with USB hubs). Note: This only applies to older v1 and v2 CronusMAX models. All v3 models are USB Hub compatible. Click Here to find out which version CronusMAX you have.
If you hover your mouse over the firmware version area, a popup will also display detailed information about your CronusMAX PLUS and will tell you if it is USB Hub compatible.
Make sure you follow the correct guide for your Controller/Console in the manual. The step by step instructions will guide you through the process of setting everything up correctly.
 
IMPORTANT
DO NOT power on your console with the DualShock 4 controller's PS button or the CronusMAX will lose it's connection after a few minutes. Make sure you power on the console with it's actual power button. This rule applies to all controllers and all consoles.

Also, make sure your DualShock 4 controller is unpaired from your PS4, so it's not accidently connecting to the console via Bluetooth. Click Here for a simple guide via the CronusMAX Support Forums on how to do that.


 
Here are some other notable troubleshooting tips when using a USB Hub with the PS4 and you're having disconnection issues:
 
  • First make sure your CronusMAX PLUS is updated to the latest firmware.
  • Intermittent connection? Drops in and out of Authorization? Either the USB cable to the Auth Controller or the USB Hub is bad/not compatible. Try another.
  • Did you make sure that PS4 Partial Cross Over support was disabled in Cronus PRO? This is very important.
  • Did you make sure that the USB port numbers were correct? This is very important.
  • Did you set the device output in Cronus PRO to AUTOMATIC? Again, very important - the controller will disconnect every 10 minutes on a PS4 otherwise.
  • Did you desync/unpair your wireless DS4 from the PS4 before starting? Again, very important - the controller will disconnect randomly on a PS4 otherwise.
  • If you have a PS4 Pro and using a DualShock 4 V2 (CUH-ZCT2U) controller, make sure it's set to USB Only and the Power Saving setting is disabled.
  • Is the USB Hub logo in the Cronus PRO status bar gray and the firmware version is 1.21 or above? If yes, the USB Hub feature will not be supported.
  • A PS4 controller has to be connected to Port 4 of the USB Hub by a micro USB cable. It's possible your cable could be faulty or not full data compatible.
  • An Xbox One controller has to be connected to Port 1 of the USB Hub by a micro USB cable. It's possible your cable could be faulty or not full data compatible.
  • An Xbox 360 controller has to be a wired controller - not a wireless controller with a play and charge kit.
  • If your Xbox One controller is taking longer than usual to authenticate (CronusMAX PLUS LED spinning animation) double tap or hold down the Xbox Button - it will authenticate in a couple of seconds (CronusMAX PLUS LED changes to 0)
  • Try connecting the crossover controller to Port 3 of the USB Hub.
  • Try connecting the CronusMAX PLUS into the console first - wait a few seconds - then connect the USB Hub. You must do this before AU appears on the CronusMAX PLUS LED or you'll have to reconnect the CronusMAX PLUS to the console and start again.
  • Remember that console power cycles must be done by the power button on the console, not by the controller.
  • Experiencing lag? Some USB Hubs cause lag - in particular the ELECOM brand. Try another brand.
  • Check the USB Hub Non-Working List & Working List - not all USB Hubs will work, make sure you are using a USB Hub from the working list if you are having issues.

3
My headset won't work
Due to how the CronusMAX PLUS communicates with the PS4, Xbox One and Xbox 360 controllers, you will not be able to use a chatpad or any headsets that plug into the controller itself (unless you are using the two controller method on the Xbox One). However, any headset that can connect directly to the console it was designed for, either wired or wireless should work fine. Or if you have a PS4 console you can use a wired headset with the PS4 USB Sound Card that is included with all new versions of CronusMAX PLUS (US/Canada Model only - check with your supplier before purchasing as some Asian models do not include this item).
 
We have compiled a list of known solutions that are are fully compliant with the CronusMAX PLUS. There may be others, we will update the list as often as we can. If you come across a headset that works and should be added to the manual, please let us know :)
 

4
The LED Display stays at AU all the time
AU means Authentication. The CronusMAX is expecting to read the Security ID from the consoles original controller so it can be "borrowed" to spoof a crossover controller on that console (example: you have a PS4 console and want to use an Xbox One Elite Controller - so the Auth controller in this case would be a DualShock 4 controller).
 
If the LED is not switching from AU to 0 after you connect the Auth controller to the CronusMAX then it could be one of several issues:
 
  • The Output Protocol is not set to the correct console in Cronus PRO. If using a USB Hub it should be AUTOMATIC. If using an Xbox One it should be XB1. If a PS4 then set to PS4 and so on.
  • The USB cable used to connect the Auth Controller to the CronusMAX is either not full data compatible or faulty.
  • If you are using an Xbox 360 console, then your Xbox 360 wired controller is not Auth compatible.
  • The USB Input socket on the CronusMAX is faulty. You can test this by connecting the CronusMAX PLUS to a PC via the PC PROG Port and the supplied Mini USB cable, then use the Device Monitor in Cronus PRO to see if the controller inputs are being read
 

5
I can't get Cronus PRO to work on a MAC
Cronus PRO is compatible with Windows 7, 8 or 10. However it will work on a MAC as you can run these versions of Windows in a dual-boot configuration using free tools such as VirtualBox and Boot Camp or paid tools such as Parallels Desktop and VMware Fusion. If you don't own Windows, you can download a trial copy of Windows 10 here (click on the 'Download Tool Now' button and use the Media Creation Tool).
 
Here are some guides to help you get Windows 10 working on a MAC:
 
  • Windows 10 on a MAC using VirtualBox - Click Here (Note: USB 2.0 extension pack is required. Click Here for details)
  • Windows 10 on a MAC using Boot Camp - Click Here
  • Windows 10 on a MAC using Parallels Desktop - Click Here (Note: USB 2.0 mode needs to be set in Parallels and a USB 2.0 Hub is required)
  • Windows 10 on a MAC using VMware Fusion - Click Here
  • Windows 10 on a MAC booting from a USB flash drive or external USB Hard Drive - Click Here
 
NOTE
We don’t often recommend paid software, but in the case of Parallels Desktop, it’s something we use every single day for testing software and running Windows on a MAC. The integration with OS X is amazingly well done, and the speed blows away VirtualBox. In the long run, the price is well worth it (You can download a 14 day trial and the price at time of press is $79.99).


6
I can't select any device options in Cronus PRO
If you are unable to select any of the Device Options in the Cronus Pro software, you will probably find that it says 'Device Disconnected' even though you have the CronusMAX connected to your computer (See #1)
Here are some troubleshooting suggestions:
 
  • The Mini-USB cable may be faulty - try another (it must be a full data USB cable - not just a charging cable).
  • The USB port is 3.0 or possibly faulty - try another (we recommend USB 2.0 as many USB 3.0 ports are not fully backwards compatible).
  • The device is somehow corrupted after it was programmed at the factory or you tried to update the firmware when connected to a USB 3.0 port Click Here for instructions on the Firmware Recovery procedure.
  • The device is an older version of CronusMAX that doesn't have the CronusMAX PLUS firmware and is not supported (Click Here to check the different CronusMAX versions).
  • Some Anti-Virus apps block certain functions in the Cronus PRO software. Try disabling temporarily to see if that helps.
  • If you have tried everything and the CronusMAX still won't connect then there is the unfortunate possibility that it is faulty. You should return it to wherever you purchased from and get a replacement.
 

7
Timeout Error: The device is not responding
When programming a CronusMAX with a Firmware update or perhaps GamePacks and scripts, you get a Timeout Error and the device fails to program.
Here are some troubleshooting suggestions:
 
  • The Mini-USB cable may be faulty - try another (it must be a full data USB cable - not just a charging cable).
  • The USB port is 3.0 or possibly faulty - try another (we recommend USB 2.0 as many USB 3.0 ports are not fully backwards compatible).
  • Some Anti-Virus apps block certain functions in the Cronus PRO software. Try disabling temporarily to see if that helps.
  • The firmware must be at least CronusMAX PLUS v1.00 (older CronusMAX (non-Plus) versions will not work with the new Cronus PRO software).
  • If you have tried everything and the CronusMAX still won't connect then there is the unfortunate possibility that it may be faulty. You should return it to wherever you purchased from and get a replacement.
 

8
Error while writing to flash memory
When programming a CronusMAX with a Firmware update or perhaps GamePacks and scripts, you get a writing Error and the device fails to program.
Here are some troubleshooting suggestions:
 
  • The Mini-USB cable may be faulty - try another (it must be a full data USB cable - not just a charging cable).
  • The USB port is 3.0 or possibly faulty - try another (we recommend USB 2.0 as many USB 3.0 ports are not fully backwards compatible).
  • Some Anti-Virus apps block certain functions in the Cronus PRO software. Try disabling temporarily to see if that helps.
  • The firmware must be at least CronusMAX PLUS v1.00 (older CronusMAX (non-Plus) versions will not work with the new Cronus PRO software).
  • If you have tried everything and the CronusMAX still won't connect then there is the unfortunate possibility that it may be faulty. You should return it to wherever you purchased from and get a replacement.
 

9
My controller has lag
So, what is Lag - or more accurately Input Lag?
 
In video games, input lag is either the delay between the television or monitor receiving a signal and it being displayed on the screen, or the delay between pressing a button on your controller and seeing the game react. This troubleshooting guide will help you with lag solutions for BOTH your controller and your display.
 
The first part of the guide sets up your controller with the CronusMAX and will assume you are using a wireless controller with the Bluetooth adapter. The second part of the guide handles the display, which covers ALL controllers and should be followed by every gamer, whether or not you are using a CronusMAX.
 

Controller Lag

 
First of all, latency will ALWAYS be higher on anything wireless. The conversion from wired to wireless and the transmission and receiving of it over the air will naturally add latency. That being said, CronusMAX still works well with Bluetooth - as long as everything is setup correctly and there is no interference causing problems. This guide is a little long but it's very much worth it. The difference it makes in some cases is astonishing.
 
First make sure your Speed Up settings are correct as per the Controller Guides. The example below shows the recommended default Speed Up Settings for DualShock 4 Wireless Controllers when connecting to a PS4.
 
You can choose to tweak them if you have any issues. For example if you have a slower Bluetooth adapter or experience any issues with rumble then you should try different 'Rumble Over Bluetooth' speed settings. The default is Full Speed, however alternative options available are Flow Control+, Flow Control and Disabled. Start with 'Disabled' and go from there. Some Bluetooth adapters may not like DS4 BT Boost so disable that and test too.
Another little known but important point to understand is that Bluetooth and Wi-Fi devices use the same radio frequencies to communicate, they often interfere with one another and are prone to interference from other devices operating on the same frequencies. If you are experiencing lag with your Bluetooth wireless controller, even though you have tried different Speed Up Settings in the Device Options panel and have setup your TV as per the settings suggested above, there is a good chance you have a WiFi Router that is causing interference. We have found that routers such as Apple's Airport Express have this problem and you should make sure that the router is not in close proximity to your CronusMAX/Bluetooth Adapter.
 
You should also try changing the WiFi Router Channel to optimize your wireless signal. Click Here for more information on how to do that.
 
We also recommend that you Click Here to check out an article that looks at the effects of such interference, what causes it and how to reduce it in a home or office environment.
 
To demonstrate that this issue is nothing to do with the CronusMAX, here's a screenshot from the Playstation Support website showing just one example of many:
Interestingly this user disabled the "Connect Directly to PS4" option under the PSVITA settings and they report that it solved their lag problems (they do say it disables the PS4's Wi-Fi which is incorrect, it simply means it now connects directly to the PS4 Wi-Fi instead of through the router. The PS4 now acts as the hub - perhaps it changes how the Wi-Fi signal works around the console which was causing some interefence with the Bluetooth adapter?). After some research and it seems others have resolved similar lag issues with this same solution too - so perhaps it's something you can try?
 

Display Lag

 
The next step is to setup your TV/Monitor itself. What many people overlook is that if a TV has a Game Mode, you will have input lag if it's not being used. This is because generally newer TVs do their own processing to the image/sound before displaying it to the TV, resulting in a delay between the source output and displayed results.
 
Setting your TV/Monitor in Game Mode will eliminate this processing and give you a 1:1 source to display throughput. (This helps for any gaming system). If you don't believe me, Google it, there's thousands of blogs and articles that talk about it. I've compiled the most comprehensive and detailed guide that you'll find anywhere to aid you in getting the perfect lag-free gaming setup.  Follow these steps and it may just blow your mind in how much improvement it makes - without or without using a CronusMAX. Here's one response from a customer....
 
QUOTE
"Wow!!!! I was blown away that this actually worked, who would have thought the cause of all this enraging input delay was a result of game mode on my TV. It was a bit difficult to find, but it was indeed there. And WOW, did it make a difference. I cannot tell you how amazing it is to play now. The input lag is completely gone, I'm insanely particular about latency and input lag, and when I got my CronusMAX yesterday and tried it, I was disappointed, but this changes everything and now my setup is better than ever before. THANK YOU, THANK YOU!"

 
I was recently able to use a Leo Bodnar input lag tester to optimize settings for my TV. I'm going to list some obvious and not so obvious ways to reduce lag.
 
  • Switch input mode from "AV" to "PC/HDMI". For monitors/TVs that have the "HDMI" label instead of "PC" (such as with 90% of Samsung & LG products), you must rename the input mode to "PC" manually. I know it seems silly that changing the name of the input would actually make a difference - but just try it and see what happens. You'll cry. If your TV or monitor is NOT a Samsung, AND you cannot find out how to rename HDMI mode to PC, then chances are your HDMI mode will work just as well. With any monitor though, switching to "PC" (or HDMI mode if you can't rename it) input mode instead of "Auto", "AV" or "HDMI" will instantly shut off all of the useless post-processing protocols that are specific to the AV mode.
 
Whats amazing is that for every product I've ever done this on, the screen looks ten times smoother and actually has an anti-jaggy (AA) effect despite shutting off post-processing effects. This is because AV modes almost always use some weird "artificial digital sharpness" that makes jaggies from games appear worse. I'm sure this feature can make movies look great, but its not meant for games. Even more surprising is often you'll gain another inch of screen! AV mode (or AV/HDMI mode on Samsung) is often zoomed and stretched. TONS of people go years without even realizing they are missing a portion of their screen. Flip back and forth if you think you notice a difference. That said, many monitors already use the unzoomed format (also called "Just Scan" protocol), and in that case you won't notice a difference. Either way, your picture should look better but most importantly you have just shaved about another 10-15ms from this switch.
 
I personally have a Samsung and the difference is huge, however the manual says to specifically use HDMI Port 2 - remember to READ THE TV MANUAL!
 
Labelling the HDMI input to "PC" is preferred over Game Mode because on these models:
  • It cuts down the input lag even more
  • It enables 4:4:4 chroma (depending on TV model)
  • It disables all post processing
  • It defaults to 0% overscan
  • It completely disables sharpness enhancement that other modes still have (even when set to 0%)
 
  • Enable Game Mode, if available. If you are a fanatic about TV picture calibration and are frustrated by the lack of fine-tuning white balance, check to see if there is a factory menu you can access for more granular adjustments. Game mode is the single most important thing you can do as far as reducing input lag and is found on most modern sets, where the settings of the TV, including colors, motion blur, and others variables, are set specifically to accommodate video games, and will help reduce video game lag. Where as certain settings can help with motion graphics, such as sports on live TV, these same settings can make your video game lag or feel delayed. Most of the time this option will have disappeared after selecting PC mode. PC mode usually stops ALL post-processing (which is what causes input lag), while game mode usually only stops some for HDMI mode. If you do still see a Game Mode, turn it on. Check to see if doing so resets your monitor back to "HDMI" mode. If so, go with PC mode over Game mode. If you can have both modes at the same time (it's possible) then go with that.
 
  • Look for a setting called "Response Time" or "Pixel overdrive", "overdrive", etc. Usually the options are something like "Normal", "Faster", or "Fastest". The "1-2ms" advertised response time of your monitor is usually only achieved by using this overdrive setting. Before you automatically choose the "fastest" (or equivalent setting), you should do a quick google check to see if your monitor's overdrive method is worth it. In theory the overdrive/response time setting should improve your response time (pixel switch speed) which will give you a smoother moving screen. However, many times (especially with Benq), the overdrive does nothing to improve your response time, and often can introduce input lag (as it is an intense/complicated form of post-processing). do your research to determine if the benefits will outweigh the costs. Remember that faster response time gives you smoothness while lower input lag will make your aiming "feel" better. If you discover there is a compromise, it's really up to you as far as which to choose. If you don't notice any motion blurring effect (outside the game's graphical engine), then I'd personally just stick with better input lag if I was forced to choose between the two. If you find your monitors overdrive method is efficient then obviously crank it to get the best of both worlds.
 
  • Turn off any remaining "magic" or "auto-color" or anything else that sounds like a patented, gimmicky name. Generally any color or picture settings that imply an "auto" mode are just processes. Settings that say "custom" or "manual" are the ones you want to gravitate towards. If your picture/color looks worse on these manual/custom modes, then feel free to move the manual sliders around (Sharpness, RGB color balance, and contrast sliders, etc. are all fine to customize and won't affect lag). My Samsung has a common "Magic Color" setting that is supposed to auto balance colors dynamically. This option is not turned off by PC mode, so turning things like this off is necessary to "purify" your signal and eliminate remaining lag. I also have a "Magic Bright" picture mode that adjusts other picture aspects on the fly. Turn anything like that off as well. Make sure you go through each subsection of your settings (eg. Picture, Color, Input, General, etc.), and when in doubt, just google something if you don't know what it is. If you turn something off and it makes everything look like garbage, then obviously you can keep those vital processes. Once again remember if you do mess anything, you can just reset and try again.
 
  • Turn Off Motion Smoothing Modes. One of the most controversial topics in TV-land right now is motion smoothing, which uses interpolation and frame-skipping to lend a more life-like look to video content. In other words, it makes everything look like a soap opera. The words hertz and refresh rate get thrown around a lot. Generally speaking, higher refresh rates (measured in hertz) add to the soap-opera effect. LG, Sony, Toshiba, Samsung, Vizio and even Philips all have different names and brand titles for their motion smoothing settings: "TruMotion," "CineMotion," "Smooth Motion Effect," and "Smooth Motion Plus" among them. But they all basically do the same thing, with varying degrees of intensity.
     
    For single-player games, motion smoothing can actually make games look better. Sports games in particular can look as fluid as real life. But if you're playing a game online (especially a competitive multiplayer game) turn any and all motion assistance off. Along with an iffy internet connection, it's a major cause of input lag—don't put yourself at a disadvantage.
     
    Game Mode (see above) will often automatically disable motion assistance, but it's smart to double-check.
     
  • Disable HDMI-CEC. In my tests, this added ~10ms of lag on my set. I disabled it on my TV and on my PS4. Though, disabling it on my PS4 didn't change lag, it did change audio cut out.
 
  • Disable any power saving settings or ambient screen dimming. Both of these add additional lag (~10ms each).
 
  • If possible, test each HDMI input. I have 4 HDMI inputs and two of them consistently have less input lag (6ms less) than the other two.
 
  • Using TV speakers add input lag. If possible, use a separate audio system such as a sound bar. Using TV speakers added ~8ms of lag on my set.
 
  • Looking for the ultimate gaming experience? Simply put, purchasing a 120hz+ Refresh Rate TV will get rid of any input lag you may have experienced with a 60hz Refresh Rate TV. Even with smaller TVs, a 60hz refresh rate can make it feel like your tv, internet, or controller is lagging or not responding to your inputs. With larger TVs, it’s even more noticeable. A 120hz+ refresh rate will help minimize and reduce lag when playing video games. Below is a simple guide that explains what the refresh rate should be for the size of your TV to help get rid of your video game lag:
 
All that being said, I was personally able to shave off ~20ms of lag. I tested using the average of top, middle, and bottom readings which is the current meta. I also let the TV warm up for a few minutes before measuring each change as I observed this was the best way to observe lowest measurements and most accurately resembled real-world use.
 
Obviously, not all of these will translate from one TV set to another, but if anything else, it suggests that seemingly benign settings can introduce additional lag.
 
If you want to check out the Lag rating for your TV/Monitor/Projector, or any other model - we highly recommend displaylag.com - they currently have well over 500 models in their database!
 
As you guessed, DisplayLag features a database with multitudes of HDTVs and monitors, along with news, reviews, and information about the latest displays and video games. I wanted to create a centralized database, a place where anyone can come and look up a display. Before this website, measurements were scattered all over the internet, using a variety of testing methods (most commonly involving a computer, clone mode displays and a program such as SMTT), and it was difficult to create a standard in which we could accurately compare displays due to a large amount of factors. Not anymore.

10
My CronusMAX stopped working after an update
Follow these simple steps:
 
 
WARRANTY
If there is no LED display even after hitting the reset button then unfortunately your CronusMAX is faulty and you should return it to the place of purchase and get it replaced under the terms of the warranty.


11
My GamePack or Script is not working
Here are some notable troubleshooting tips:
 
  • If you have an issue with a GamePack, first make sure you read the guide for that pack. They are all listed here.
  • If you can't get a specific feature in a GamePack working, or don't understand how it works - make a detailed post explaining your problem in the GamePack Support Forums.
  • Some popular games such as Call of Duty and Black Ops have their own Dedicated Support Forums. Post any questions you have for those games there.
  • If you have an issue with a particular script, speak to the author of the script about it, or if it is a script that you have made, make a detailed post to the Script Support Forums.
  • If you have issues loading GamePacks to the CronusMAX, make sure it is connected correctly (doesn't say Disconnected in the status bar), then erase all the memory slots and try again.
  • If you have a GamePack Bug Report - post it here.
  • If you have a GamePack Request - post it here.
  • If you have a Script Request - post it here.